When Doom does muster some self-restraint, he comes off triply brilliant. Most of Doom's raps on Mm.Food? sacrifice cohesion for maximum punch. Fantastik hardly embarrasses himself: 'True to the ski mask New York's my origin/ Play a fake gangsta like a old accordian.'

Unlike Doomsday, guest spots are smartly kept to a minimum, though in fairness, 'Rapp Snitch Knishes' co-emcee Mr. There aren't as many belly laughs on Mm.Food? as there were on VV1 or Madvillainy, but Doom does manage this spam-mail slam on 'Kookies': 'Supposed to be checkin e-mails/ All I got is messages from ass naked females / I don't know no Jenny, she said it's free/ And I won't owe her a penny, and that's the last time I saw her/ But thousands of more horrors are on line (Gomorrah.)'. 'On his own throne, the boss like King Koopa', Doom spits silver dollars like a subway-card dispenser, but he also loosens his mask a bit for a few tender bleats: 'Look like a black wookie when he keeps his hair low,' he confesses on 'Beef Rapp'. Here Doom wants nothing more than to score some Clever Points with quirky one-liners over tight beats. Post Doomsday, MF Doom as MF Doom has no interest in the space-laser rapocalypse of King Geedorah's Take Me To Your Leader or the dysfunctional gangster whim of Madvillain's Madvillainy. While Doom doesn't drop strictly food-related rhymes, the album's subject matter is always commonplace: friends, sucka MCs, girls, weed, and hip-hop. As an official follow-up to Operation: Doomsday, Mm.Food? is an attempt to make good on Doom's almost fascist conceit to restore rap's golden age despite its loss of innocence. 'Operation Doomsday complete,' we're told in the opening sound collage of Mm.Food?. Doom 'came to destroy rap' because rap had betrayed itself: Operation: Doomsday was the story of- and vehicle for- his return-to-roots revenge. Like other rap heavyweights at the time, Doom promised world domination, but with tongue firmly in cheek, making tall boasts only to undermine them with nerdy self-deprecation and high-falutant science-fiction soap-ops. So I'm bringing it back to the old, bragging about how nice you are with the words.' Doom said this on NPR in 2003, but the sentiment holds true for his 1999 comeback solo full-length Operation: Doomsday. That seems to be the in thing- how many people you can murder on a record. 'There are different topics besides murdering everybody.

By 1993, rap had toasted to The Chronic, Illmatic, and 36 Chambers had it been released then, KMD's pointed and confrontational Black Bastards would have sounded but a wolf cry while the rest of hip-hop was taking its first sips of gin and juice. 'Only in America could you find a way to earn a healthy buck/ And still keep your attitude on self-destruct,' Doom would say later in 'Rhymes Like Dimes'. But when hip-hop got fat and gangsta and lucrative- as well as massively important, culturally influential, and- Doom kept low, disgruntled by what he saw as big-money rap's new self-importance. Foodtalk is facile shorthand, and after 15 years in the game, MF Doom has had his share of Warren G Cheezie Nachos and Master P Platinum BBQ Rap Snacks. and Big Pun and Puffy and Fat Joe and Raekwon the Chef, or singlehandedly stabilized a dying French wine town with an MTV spot and a few choice Diddies. Skeptics: name another genre that has its own brand of potato chips, or counts as heroes men named Notorious B.I.G.

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